A Girl and A Bald Guy

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Finally, Saudi Arabia Is Open To Tourists. But Is It Really Worth The Hype?

February 1, 2020

I can’t believe it.

 

I, am actually vacationing in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA).

 

Since forever, the only people permitted to enter this unknown desert “Kingdom” have been business travelers, Muslims on their pilgrimage, visitors attending the odd event, and domestic workers that the rich Saudi’s hired in to do the jobs they don’t want to do.

 

This country is the last frontier. It is without doubt, the worlds least explored country by "tourists" (simply because they have never been opened to tourists till now). 

 

And I’m here. I’m a tourist in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

 

[Screw Tourism Approach]

Oil rich KSA has never bothered themselves with tourism revenue. But in the face of dwindling oil reserves, they’ve decided it’s now time to diversify their economic portfolio away from oil.

 

So now, they want your money; and your next vacation.

 

[They Want Your Next Vacation]

Since end September 2019, KSA has launched a mega tourism campaign, issuing tourist visas to citizens of 49 countries, hiring "influencers" all over the world to change their “poor human rights” image in the West. I say the “West” because most of us, or most people you know, can’t care less about what is going on in Saudi Arabia.

 

We apparently have too many things on our plate to worry about such things. Don’t believe me? Ask your colleague at work what Saudi Arabia is known for. They’ll tell you it’s “oil, sand, and terrorists”.

 

So KSA hopes to “diversify” and move away from their total dependency on oil approach. Tourists are more than welcomed, you’ll see your respective country’s news outlets constantly bombard you with KSA advertisement campaigns, and the country will have luxury hotels and resorts sprouting up like mushrooms at every significant tourist attraction.

 

But to their credit, this desert “Kingdom” does have a whole lot up its sleeve. In fact, it’s been hiding its many treasures since the beginning of time; up till September 2019 that is.

 

[Why Bother Vacationing In Saudi Arabia?]

("Lonely Castle", the Tombs of Madain Salih)

 

So what exactly is there to see in Saudi Arabia? It’s far from a budget destination, as you’d expect from a country overrun with rich oil sheikhs.

 

There’s no alcohol, no nightlife, and even if there were, I bet you wouldn’t dare to go wild. Last I heard, the punishment for stealing was amputation of your hands. Want to guess what other punishments await you when you do what you’d normally enjoy back in your own country?

 

[Surprise, surprise]

(Al Ula heritage region)

 

I visited Saudi Arabia in December 2019 with a couple of friends. Everything in, including visa, air tickets, hotels, food, tours, car rentals; everything. We spent S$2,700 for a total of 8 days. Surprisingly, it wasn’t that expensive after all. And no hostels in Saudi Arabia either.

 

[Here’s Why You’ll Give Them Your Money]

With just 8 days, there was no way I could savour all the delights the desert “Kingdom” had to offer. But I did what I could, and got to visit a good many of their key attractions. And no wonder KSA has been hiding its treasure chest of attractions from the rest of the world for centuries. They are impressive. Let’s take a look.

 

1. The Tombs of Madain Salih & Ul Ula Region

Saudi Arabia’s answer to Jordan’s Petra, one of the 7 Wonders of the World. As far as archaeological sites go, this is KSA's biggest attraction.

 

2. Historic Jeddah

It reminded me a little of Morocco’s Chefchaouen and Tunisia’s Sidi Bou Said.

 

A “old town” with an ambiance that just hits you the minute you step in. Visit after 5pm, nothing is open before that.

 

In the picture above are the "coral houses" of Jeddah's historic district known as "Al Balad". They are made from blocks of coral, easily available from the sea. Today, the wooden balconies are rotting, and the historic district is falling apart. 

 

3. Magnificent Mosques

They don’t compare to Muscat’s Sultan Qaboos Mosque or Istanbul’s Blue Mosque in terms of architectural grandeur or “feel”, but they are no slouch and impressive in their own way.

 

4. The Edge of The World 

This is a real winner. I felt like I was truly at the edge of the world. The most “post-apocalyptic” feel ever, only rivaled perhaps by Ukraine’s Chernobyl. Step aside Grand Canyon, the “Edge” takes the cake. 

 

5. The Holy Cities

Image Credit: Agoda.com 

 

Only Muslim’s are allowed entry, while I couldn’t visit, I couldn’t not mention this.

 

From pictures, it looks more impressive than the Vatican. And yes, it’s a legit attraction if you’re a Muslim on your pilgrimage. For the rest of us, we’ll stick to pictures. Please don’t try your luck getting in. You might not get caught, but if you do, you won’t even be able to send a postcard home.

 

6. Kingdom Riyadh

Saudi Arabia’s capital. Like Dubai, they have some pretty cool buildings.

 

7. The Red Sea & Georgios G Shipwreck

Image Credit: Wikiloc

 

We didn’t have enough time to visit the shipwreck or dive in the blue waters of the “Red Sea”. But if you’ve more time than we did, you should visit the “Maldives” of Saudi Arabia.

 

8. The “Real” Mount Sinai

 Image Credit: Islamitics

 

If you've read your Bible, you’ll know from the book of Exodus, that Moses struck a rock and water came out from it.

 

The Egyptians will have you believe it happened at Mount Sinai (their country) so they can continue to churn tourist dollars out of you. But the “rock that was struck” was actually at Mount Horeb, which is in Saudi Arabia. So for Christian's, this is a pretty cool site. 

 

9. Red Sand Dunes

Beautiful red color especially in the sunset.

 

Perfect for picnics, quad biking, and dune bashing. Pity it's covered in rubbish.

 

10. Al Wahba Volcanic Crater

We had to drive for 5 hours to get here from Jeddah.

 

But when we arrived, it was all worth it.

 

Then, we had to drive 5 hours back.

 

[The Harsh Reality]

(Al Ula heritage region)

 

For all their wonders, the KSA is, and likely, will always be a polarizing travel destination for many.

 

It’s hard to get behind visiting a country with a terrible human rights record like jailing political opponents and activists, forced downloading of propaganda from the state controlled media machine, frequent back tracking on promises like not raising taxes, withholding their citizens money....

 

oops; wrong country.

 

That was some other Asian country, not the KSA. Let me try again.

 

It’s hard to get behind visiting a country with a terrible human rights record like imprisoning and torturing women’s rights activists, journalists (Jamal Kashoggi the most recent), carries out public executions (no kidding, in the 21st century yes), and only recently, finally allowing women to drive. 

(Al Rahma Floating Mosque, Jeddah)

 

Gender segregation is prevalent all over the country.

 

Even at fast food restaurants like McDonalds or Al Baik (a KSR fast food restaurant like KFC), there different sections for men and women.

 

While we were an all guys group, it made me wonder, had I been traveling with “The Girl”, and assuming we weren’t married, would we have been forced to eat apart from each other? Would we have gotten weird looks if we were holding hands? Would we even be allowed to sleep in the same room without our marriage certificate? (which we always bring a photocopy of when we travel to the Middle East)

 

[No Car, No Vacation]

(Petrol costs just S$0.55 a litre, and car rental's cost as low as S$45 a car per day!)

 

In KSR as well as the rest of the Middle East, knowing your “social standing” is actually a thing. Public buses are the mode of transport by poorer migrant workers shipped in by the rich Saudis/Kuwaitis/etc to the jobs they don’t want to do.

 

I’ve visited at least 8 countries in the region dubbed as “The Middle East”, and I’ve never come across a rich sheikh choosing a bus or taxi over a ride in their luxury fuel guzzlers. In short, if you’re a budget traveller/backpacker/tourist without a driving license, you're pretty screwed.